Discovering niche luxury - watch brands to look out for

If you are an avid collector of luxury watches, it is worthwhile keeping an eye on these lesser-known but upcoming gems. Could these newer brands offer future investment potential?

In this article, we look at the workmanship of some of these hidden European marvels, which offer a unique perspective on luxury timepieces within the thriving second-hand market. While brands like Rolex continue to captivate collectors, a wave of niche brands is making waves with their exceptional craftsmanship and innovative designs.

They represent a fusion of tradition and modernity, often at a more accessible price point than their more famous counterparts. As the luxury watch market evolves, these lesser-known brands are gradually gaining recognition, with some models showing promising value appreciation on the secondary market.

Trilobe

  Image source: trilobe.com

Trilobe is a French watch brand that has captivated horology enthusiasts with its inventive approach to time-telling. Founded in 2018, Trilobe's watches feature eccentric rings on the watch face that revolutionise the traditional hour, minute, and second hands functionality and presentation. Unique designs, combined with the power of the Swiss Micromotor movement, set Trilobe apart in the luxury watch market. 

Their "Nuit Fantastique" model, which translates to "Magnificent Night," is particularly celebrated for its clean, sophisticated aesthetic and innovative mechanics. It is a must-have for collectors seeking something beyond the ordinary.

Peruse their collection - Trilobe

Price Range - R170,000 - R500,000 est.

Habring²

  Image source: monochrome-watches.com

Founded by Maria and Richard Habring in 2004, Habring² is an Austrian brand epitomising bespoke watchmaking at its finest. The couple's dedication to handcrafting each piece ensures every Habring² watch contains its very own idiosyncratic quirks and designs, merging tradition with modern innovation. 

Known for their simplicity and mechanical complexity, Habring² watches are highly sought-after by those who appreciate understated luxury. The brand's modular approach allows for various customisations, such as choosing from various materials like stainless steel and different sizes to fit your wrist, the option to select from different dial designs, colours, and finishes, and customisation of complications like chronographs or jumping seconds. This allows each timepiece to reflect its owner's personality and individualism.

Peruse their collection - Habring²

Price range - Est R115,000 - R285,000

Thomas Schnelle

  Image source: monochrome-watches.com

Based in Munich, Thomas Schnelle is a brand that revives the classic Roaring Twenties art-deco style with a modern twist. Each watch is handcrafted with vintage Longines movements, characterised by a blend of history and contemporary design. 

Thomas Schnelle's commitment to bespoke craftsmanship allows buyers to customise every timepiece aspect, from the casing to the dial colour. This ensures each watch is as unique as the individual who wears it, making Thomas Schnelle a shrouded gem in the mid-tier watch market.

Peruse their collection - Thomas Schnelle

Price Range (Mid-tier) - Approx. R40,000 upward

Kudoke

  Image source: watchbysjx.com

Kudoke, a Dresden-based brand, has made a name for itself with its signature skeletonised designs. Founded by Stefan Kudoke, the brand offers visually striking and mechanically sophisticated watches. 

The "HANDwerk" collection is simply premium. Featuring the Time Only, Day Night-Indicator, and conventional hour models, it showcases Kudoke's exceptional craftsman. Powered by the Heuer Calibre 1, a hand-wound mechanical movement known for its precision and classic design, typically featuring small-second sub-dials, these timepieces can be hand-skeletonised upon request, adding an extra layer of exclusivity.

Peruse their collection - Kudoke

Price Range - Est R160,000 - R600,000

Sarpaneva

  Image source: thelimitededition.co.uk

Sarpaneva, founded in 2003 by Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva, is known for its perfectionism and passion for eccentric, colourful horology. Each watch is lovingly handcrafted in Helsinki, a testament to Sarpaneva's dedication to quality and manifest design.

The brand's timepieces are distinguished by their intricate details and robust construction, heralded by a drive for longevity. Heirlooms, if you will. Sarpaneva watches are not just instruments for telling time; they are works of art embodying the watchmaker's relentless pursuit of excellence.

Peruse their collection - Sarpaneva

Price Range - Est R300,000 - R450,000.

While these niche brands continue to gain recognition, their models could become more desirable in the growing second-hand market, where their exclusivity and custom features might make them valuable investments in the near future. 

This growing interest mirrors the broader trend in the luxury watch market, where demand for personalised and vintage pieces continues to rise, especially in platforms like Luxity in South Africa.

The second-hand market - A booming investment opportunity

  Image source: swisswatchexpo.com

That being said, the second-hand luxury watch market is experiencing a significant surge, driven by the investment potential and demand for personalised or vintage pieces. In South Africa, this trend is reflected in the growth of Chrono 24 and Luxity, an omnichannel boutique specialising in pre-owned high-end goods. 

According to Luxity, watch and jewellery sales have increased 32% over the past year. Rolex and Cartier watches, for instance, maintain high resale values, which, beyond name recognition, is one of the reasons why they are the most sought-after in this segment.

Regional stores and online keepsakes in South Africa

South Africa offers several options for those looking to explore these exclusive luxury watch brands. Luxity, with stores in Nelson Mandela Square, V&A Waterfront, Gateway Theatre of Shopping, and Menlyn Maine, is a leading destination for pre-owned luxury watches and Chrono 24, South Africa's leading online watch retail store 

Additionally, you may also consider online platforms like Watchfinder and myGemma, which provide access to a wide range of luxury timepieces authenticated by experts to ensure their quality and legitimacy.

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